M18 x 1.0 Positional* 12mm Tank Outlet and Strainer

part no. 800-00074 Price £25.83 GBP + VAT (£31.00)

Designed to be the best possible way to join a 12mm hose for an injection pump to for the air cooled models with an M18x1.0 threaded fuel tank outlet, this outlet is as compact as possible without compromising flow into the pump:

Fits all the air cooled models with the M18x1.0 male outlet thread (most carburettor bay, Beetle, Type 3, and all 914 models, etc). To suit 12mm bore hose directly to an injection pump inlet. Supplied with a good quality tank strainer. The outlet being a positional elbow makes routing 12mm hose much easier, as it’s not very flexible, and can reduce the length of 12mm SAE J30 R9 hose needed (it’s expensive) between the tank and pump.

Electroless nickel plated, to guarantee good quality coverage all over (electroplating parts with captive nuts such as this is unreliable, as the nut and pipe always mask part of each other from the electric field) . Electroless nickel is considerably more expensive than zinc electroplating, but it’s the best way to plate a fitting with a captive nut such as this.

Don’t install a fibre washer between the tank thread and strainer, as shown in VW manuals. The aluminium ring at the bottom of the strainer supplied is very soft, and works perfectly as a seal without a fibre washer.

*Positional fittings like this can be installed in any angle regardless of what position the thread locks at. This is important when such a large diameter hose is needed, as they’re not very flexible.

Injection Filter

part no. 100-00032 Price: £9.17 GBP + VAT (£11.00)

Injection filter for use between the pump and engine fuel inlet (not anywhere else!).

FBJC100 Fuel Injector Service Kit

part no. 800-00054, Price £16.67 GBP + VAT (£20.00)

O-rings, filters and pintle cap set for all the models using the Unisia Jecs FBJC100 type injectors. In European / ‘rest of world’ spec Subaru models these are the EJ201 and EJ251’s from normally aspirated MY00 -03 Legacy, MY00-07 Impreza, and MT02-07 Forester EJ201 and EJ251 models without air assist injection.

The kit consists of 8 Viton o-rings, 4 filters and 4 pintle caps:

This is the FBJC100 type Subaru injector that this kit fits (injector(s) not included):

The FBJC100 injector which this kit fits

FBJC100 injectors were used in the other Subaru markets (i.e. Japan and the USA) too, but not necessarily in the same years and models listed above. This is due to the Japanese spec and US spec models being built with unique managament systems not uses elsewhere, because of the unique emissions rules in these markets. Some models used them from MY99 in these markets, and the US spec EJ221 probably used them too.

Note this set does not fit the very similar looking FBLC100 injectors. Models with air assist injection (I.e. the OBD II models which have an atmospheric air pressure sensor mounted in the engine compartment and no EGR) use FBLC100 injectors, the top part of which looks identical to FBJC100 (apart from the lettering). However they have a very different design from the stainless steel part down – i.e. where the injector fits into the manifold. We can’t get all of the seals for the FBLC100 injectors. The easiest way to know whether your engine has air assist injection id to look for the presence of the air assist injection valve, as shown below, next to the coil:

Air Assist Injection Valve – if your engine has this valve, this kit is not suitable

Subaru Fuel System in a VW FAQ:

If you want to know more about the history of fuel injection fuel systems in detail, and why how they are plumbed is critical to the success of your fuel system and the life of your fuel pump, see Bosch Electronic Fuel Injection Fuel Supply System History

For questions more to do with the specific products on this page, please see the following FAQ:

Find a suitably sized self tapping or wood screw. It needs to just bite into the plastic inside the brass ring at the top of the injector filter. Screw it into the plastic – only 1/2 to 1 turn is needed. Pull on the screw with pliers and the filter will pull out.

The manifold can corrode around the lower injector seals, trapping the injector in the manifold bore surprisingly tightly. If you have one which is stuck, soaking the corrosion around the o-ring in something like WD40, and rocking the injector from side to side a lot to encourage the WD40 to penetrate may help, but don’t be surprised if it is still stuck.
Think about how much you need to remove the stuck it vs risk damaging it before pulling on it too hard. If you’re removing it because it is faulty, you have nothing to lose. However, if you’re removing a perfectly good injector just to clean the manifold, how important is a clean manifold vs the cost and hassle of risking breaking an injector?

Don’t try to tee the fuel returning to the tank in to the tank breather, even if the tank has two breather fittings, as some late bay tanks do. Leave the breathers as VW intended, or expect other problems.
You do not need to add a fuel return to T25/T3/Vanagon tanks, as all of the tanks have a return fitting (in carburetor models it was used as a float bowl vent).
Obviously if the tank is new, and you have the necessary welding or brazing skills, a breather can be brazed (ideally) or welded into the tank without any risk. The ideal location is low down, and not near the outlet, although the latter is not really important. We don’t recommend trying to weld or braze used tanks. It can be done safely, but the risk is high if you get it wrong or don’t understand how. Instead, the return can safely be added to the filler neck in models which have a removable filler neck:

Choose a position towards the bottom of the steel filler neck which the return hose can be neatly routed to, making sure it can’t get in the way of petrol pump nozzles in models with short filler necks, and mark it on the neck.

Remove the steel filler neck pipe, make sure there is no liquid petrol still inside it, and remove it if there is. Leave it outside, somewhere where air can move around it freely for a day to be sure any vapour inside has gone.

Drill an 8mm hole in the previously marked position.

Make the return from a 90 degree bend in 8mm steel tube, and thread the 90 degree bend through the hole so it directs the returning fuel down into the tank.

Weld, or ideally braze the 8mm pipe into the filler neck. This can be done relatively safely with a used filler neck because the large hole at each end in proportion to the volume inside means that even if there were still some petrol vapour or even liquid inside, it can’t explode like a tank can. Obviously any petrol still in the filler neck could catch fire, but it’s much easier to make sure there isn’t than to know with certaininty that there is no vapour in a used tank.